Javanese Temple's

Borobudur Temple

Borobudur is the biggest Buddhist temple in the ninth century measuring 123 x 123 meters. It is located at Magelang, 90-km southeast of Semarang, or 42-km northwest of Yogyakarta. Borobudur temple is the one of the best-preserved ancient monument in Indonesia that are most frequently visited by over a million domestic as well as foreign visitors. It also had been acclaimed by the world as a cultural heritage main kind. The architectural style has no equal through out the world. It was completed centuries before Angkor Wat in Kamboja. Borobudur is one of the world's most famous temples; it stands majestically on a hilltop overlooking lush green fields and distant hills. Borobudur is built of gray andesite stone. It rises to seven terraces, each smaller than the one below it. The top is the Great Stupa, standing 40 meters above the ground. The walls of the Borobudur are sculptured in bas-reliefs extending over a total length of six kilometers. It has been hailed as the largest and most complete ensemble of Buddhist relieves in the world, unsurpassed in artistic merit and each scene an individual masterpiece.

Borobudur temple built in the eighth century by the Cailendra dynasty, is believed to have been derived from the Sanskrit words "Vihara Buddha Uhr" the Buddhist Monastery on the hill. Borobudur is a terraced temple surmounted by stupas, or stone towers; the terraces resemble Indonesian burial foundations, indicating that Borobudur was regarded as the symbol of the final resting place of its founder, a Syailendra, who was united after his death with the Buddha. The Prambanan temple complex is also associated with a dead king. The inscription of 856 mentions a royal funeral ceremony and shows that the dead king had joined Shiva, just as the founder of the Borobudur monument had joined the Buddha. Divine attributes, however, had been ascribed to kings during their lifetimes. A Mahayana inscription of this period shows that a ruler was said to have the purifying powers of a bodhisattva, the status assumed by the ruler of Shrivijaya in the 7th century; a 9th-century Shaivite inscription from the Kedu Plain describes a ruler as being "a portion of Shiva."

The Borobudur was in danger of collapsing as its stone statues and stone cancer, moss and lichen affected bas-reliefs. But, the monument has been completely restored and was officially opened by the President on 23rd February 1983. The restoration took eight years to complete, funded by the Government of Indonesia with aid from the UNESCO and donations from private citizens as well as from foreign governments.

The visitors have the option of going by taxi or public bus to reach this temple. Public transportation is available from the bus terminal. From that point visitors can hire becaks or horse carts, or walk the rest of the way to the monument. A large parking area is available not far from the monument, so private cars and buses can park in this area.

Bandungan and Gedong Songo Temple

This is a resort on the slope of mount Ungaran, about 900 meters above sea level. Gedong Songo (nine buildings), a group of small 8th century Hindu Javanese temples, can be reached either by car or on horseback from the town. Built at about the same time as the temples of the Dieng complex, Gedong Songo is one of the most beautifully sited temple complexes in Central Java and the views alone are worth the trip. Gedung Songo ('Nine Buildings') belong to the earliest antiquities of Java, they follow up the temples on the Dieng Plateau directly, for what about time. They were also built high in the mountains in an area full with volcanic activity; and they were also from Hinduist origin. But where the temples on Dieng Plateau are somewhat squeezed into a foggy valley, Gedung Songo are spread over the higher parts of the mountains, which guarantee a splendid view. On clear days, the horizon is one long row of volcanoes, from mount Lawu in the east, towards mount Sumbing, mount Sundoro and Dieng Plateau in the west.

The temples were built between 730 and 780, the first temple excepted, which could have been built some 30 years later. Gunung Songo is not the original name and also doesn't point at the number of structures. The number nine has a special meaning in the Javanese culture, in which there is a strong attachment to numbers. The temples are located at about the same distance from each other (100 meters, 200 meters) on a naturally formed terrace of edge of a mountain.

Sukuh Temple

Sukuh temple is located in Berjo Village, Argoyoso district, in the slope of mount Lawu 35 Km east of Solo at a height about 910 m above sea level. The temple stretches from the east to the west with the main gate in the west. Sukuh Temple is decorated with wayang stone carvings of Hindu origin, the only erotic temple in Java. The stepped pyramid is like the ones in South America of the Maya culture. The temples are distinctive compared with other ancient temples in Central Java such as Borobudur and Prambanan, and its uniqueness lies in the landscaping, statuettes, and relief. The temples occupy an 11,000m2 area and consist of three terraces, each connected with an ascending alley. The most influential part is the last terrace, at the very back of the compound. At this very sacred area, once erected a homogenous phallic statue, which is now displayed at the National Museum, Jakarta. Another interesting and controversial factor of this historical site is the artistic relief on its floor, which depict male and female organs symbolizing the birth of life. This kind of construction is common in prehistoric time, especially in the megalithic era of pundan berundak (terrace grave). The temple consist of three terraces, the first terrace is the lowest level, followed by the second and the third above it. The terrace are connected with stairs to each other, each of it has an entrance gate. The temple has believed to be constructed in the 15th century during the declining years of Majapahit Empire. The relief found beside the first gate are believed had mean (sengkalan) reads Gapura Buta Aban Wong and Gapura Buta Anahut Bubut, meaning the year of 1359 saka or 1437 AD.

Johnson, the resident of Surakarta, first discovered the temple in 1815 in a very poor condition during the period of Raffles government. The first study in 1842 had done under the leadership of Dr. Van de Vlis, Hoepermans and was studied by Verbeek in 1889, and finally by Knebel in 1910. _In 1917 there had been an effort to secure and rescue by the office of prehistoric sites of the Netherlands East Indian Government. Then in 1989 the restoration was resumed by the Restoration and Maintenance of Prehistoric and Historic Project in Central Java. The view surrounding the temple is alluring. The road to this temple with impressive grandeur is surfaced all the way. The structure and the mood of Lawu Temple are different from other temples in Java, it is built like a Maya stepped pyramid, and so it is worth seeing.

Prambanan Temple (Hindu Temple)

The Prambanan temple is the biggest and a most beautiful Hindu temple about 20 minutes from Yogyakarta city. This magnificent Shivaite temple derives its name from the village where it is located. Locally known as the Loro Jongrang temple, or the temple of the "Slender Virgin" it is reputed to be the biggest and most beautiful Hindu Temple in Indonesia.

17 kilometers east of Yogyakarta, the temple is believed to have been built by King Balitung Maha Sambu in the middle of the ninth century.

Its parapets are adorned with a bas-reliefs depicting the famous Ramayana story. It has eight shrines, of which the three main ones are dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma (all are manifestations of God in Hindu). The main temple of Shiva rises to a high of 130 feet and houses the magnificent statue of Shiva's consort, Durga.

Prambanan Temple is beautiful temple, in fact, it is a group of temples. The biggest temple dedicated to Shiva (one of manifestation of God) with two other smaller ones, on its right and on its left, dedicated to Brahma and Wisnhu (manifestation of God) respectively. Reliefs decorating the walls of the temple depict the story of Ramayana.

Located about 17 kms east of Yogya, Prambanan temple is mainly dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and features the other two gods of trimurti: Krishna and Brahma. The temple was established in 9th Century (almost at the same time as Borobudur temple) with the height of 149 m2.

To get to Prambanan temple, the closest city to reach is Yogya. The city is accessible by daily flight from major cities in Indonesia like Jakarta, Surabaya and Denpasar. From Yogya, you can either take a taxi or bus (Yogya-Solo), and the temple is situated right on the main street to Solo. The best time to visit Prambanan is in the morning (8-10 AM) or in the afternoon (3-6 PM) when the temperature is warm. In the evening, especially during the full moon, the temple hosts a dance performance taken from the epic Ramayana. The stage is located strategically so that the temple becomes the backdrop of the performance.

Sambisari Temple (From the 10^th Century)

This Shiva temple was discovered in 1966, located about twelve kilometers east of Yogyakarta, on the north of the main road between Yogyakarta and Solo. The temple is very unique. It was covered by volcanic ash and dust because of the eruption of mount Merapi in 1006 and became buried six and a half meters below the surface of surrounding land but remained in perfect condition.

Sewu Temple (Buddhism Temple)

Sewu temple is located 2 km to the north-east of Prambanan Temple. "Sewu" is the Javanese word for thousand. This is the second largest Buddhist temple complex in Java, including several other small temples like Lumbung, Asu, Bubrah, and Lor Kulon temple. Restoration is professionally underway to reach its original form. It is a MANDALA, manifesting the universe in the center temple of Mahadeva, surrounded by four rings of 250 smaller temples of Gods.

Kalasan Temple (Buddhism Temple)

This unique Buddhist temple is located to the east of Yogyakarta, is about 16 km, on the South side of the main road between Yogyakarta and Solo. It was built in honour of the marriage between King Pancapana of the Sanjaya Dynasty and a Princess of the Cailendra Dynasty, named Dyah Pramudya Wardhani. It is beautifully ornamented with well carved reliefs and coated with "vajralepa", a yellowish material made from the sap of a certain tree. The vajralepa functions as an adhesive and as protection against mildew, and at the same time, refines the carvings. This temple is 24 m high and its base built in the form of a Greek Cross.



Plaosan Temples (Buddhism Temple)

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• Plaosan temple is located one kilometer to the East of Sewu Temples. These temples are unique, combining Hindu and Buddhist symbols and carvings. Originally, they were three temples, the shrines and statues are very impressive. According to inscriptions on the stone of Plaosan, these temples were constructed jointly by the rulers of Sanjaya (Rakai Pikatan) and Cailendra (King Samaratungga) dynasties. The relief carved on the southern main temple depicts a man and the other temple, a woman. Another feature of this temple is Perwara temple, which has the shape of a slender stupa.
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• After visiting Prambanan temple, you should not rush to your hotel, because close to the beautiful Hindu temple, you can also see other interesting temples. Moving 1 kilometer northwards, you will find Plaosan Temple; a temple constructed by Rakai Pikatan for her wife, Pramudyawardani. The architect of the temple that is located in Bugisan village of Prambanan sub-district is combination of Hindu and Buddha.
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• Plaosan complex is divided into 2 groups, namely the North Plaosan Temple and the South Plaosan Temple. Both of the temples have square terrace that is encircled by wall, a pillbox for meditation at the west part and dome on other side. Because of that similarity, the appearance of both temples are the same when they are seen from distant so that Plaosan temple is also called the twin temples.
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• The North Plaosan Temple has middle courtyard encircled by wall with the entrance at the west side. In the middle of the courtyard, there is a hall as wide as 21.62 m x 19 m. At the eastern part of the hall, there are 3 altars, namely north, east and south altars. The pictures of Amitbha, Ratnasambhava, Vairochana, and Aksobya are at the east altar. Samantabadhara statue and Ksitigarba figure is at the north altar, while Manjusri picture is at the west alter.
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• The South Plaosan temple also has a hall at the center that is encircled by 8 small temples that is divided into 2 ranks and each rank consists of 4 temples. There also pictures of Tathagata Amitbha, Vajrapani with vajra attribute at the utpala and Pranjaparamita who was considered "the mother of all Buddha". Some other pictures can still be found but not at their original places. Manujri figure that according to a Dutch scientist named Krom is significant can also be seen.

Part of this bas relief has unique picture of man and woman. There is a man described as sitting cross-legged with worshipping hands and a figure of a man with vara mudra and vse at his leg encircled by six smaller men. A woman is described as standing with vara mudra hands, while there are book, pallet, and vase around her. Krom explains that figures of those man and woman are descriptions of supporting patron from two monasteries.

The entire complex of Plaosan temple has 116 ancillary domes and 50 ancillary temples. Ancillary domes can be seen on each side of the main temple, as can smaller ancillary temples. Walking northwards, you can see open building called Mandapa. Two inscriptions can also be found; they are the inscription on gold coin at the north of the main temple and an inscription written on a stone in the first line of the ancillary temples.

One of the characteristics of Plaosan temple is the smooth surface of the terrace. Krom explains that such a terrace is different from other temples of the same time. To his opinion, it is related to the function of a temple by that time that is predicted to keep canonical texts owned by Buddhist monks. Other prediction by Dutch scientists, if the number of monks in that area is small then the terrace might be used as a place for Buddhists to pray.

If you go around the temple complex, you will notice that the complex of Plaosan temple is wide. That can also be noticed from long fence stretching 460 meters from north to south and 290 meters from west to east. There is also moat inside stretching as long as 440 meters from north to south and 270 meters from west to east. The moat can be seen by walking eastwards through the middle part of this historical building.

Ratu Boko Temple (Hindu Temple)

High on a mountain side about three kilometers to the South of Prambanan temple, Ratu Boko Temple, provides spectacular vistas of the Prambanan plain. To this day it is still unknown who discovered Ratu Boko or who named it. Inscriptions dating from the mid 700's say that it was a dormitory for monks. There are several ruins, including a well preserved arena which was used as a hall for royal audiences. Some legends say that it was also used as a venue for tests of mortal combat. A series of circular plunge pools carved into the limestone were used as royal baths. But most spectacular of all, is the entrance gate. With two separate gateways set on different levels, it contains very elaborate stone facings.


Banyu Nibo Temple

Banyu Nibo temple can be visited easily after visiting Ratu Boko temple. Fairly small, it is located in the middle of farmland about two kilometers south-east of Ratu Boko's Palace, flanked by Gunung Kidul hills to the south. The view of its exotic scenery makes this temple most enjoyable. Its slightly curved roof functions as the top of the stupa and gives the temple a certain allure. This Buddhist temple dates from the 9^th century and has recently been restored.

Gampingan Temple

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• Not all temples have typical, beautiful relief since generally they are decorated with statues and general relief as those found in almost all other temples. One of the temples with specific, beautiful relief is Gampingan, a temple that was incidentally found by a brick craftsman in Gampingan Village, Piyungan, Bantul in 1995. Small and incomplete, Gampingan temple is still rich in the enchanting relief.
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• One of the reliefs that we can see in this temple is the animal relief at the foot of it. The animal relief in this temple looks so natural that we can name the described animals. It is quite rare to find such relief; at least, they are only Prambanan and Mendut temples that have similar relief. All of the reliefs are decorated with ivory plant, namely padmamula (the roots of lotus plant) that is believed to be the source of life.
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• When we walked around the temple, it clearly look that birds dominate the decoration. There is a relief of a raven with its big beak, robust body, up stretching wings and the fan-like tail. There is also a relief of a woodpecker that is described to have a crest on its head, rather long, pointed beak, and not-stretched wings. Besides, there is also a crow with distended chest and wings stretching downward.

The making of many bird reliefs in this temple relates to community belief in transcendental power of birds. It was believed that birds are manifestation of the deities or nirvana. Birds are also related to human absolute freedom that is attained after the renunciation, the symbol of human soul that leaves its body.

Other animal that is often described in the temple is frog. The community believed that frogs have supra natural power to send rain so that it was also believed to increase productivity, because the rain will be able to increase the harvest. The frogs that usually come up from waters also symbolize life renewal and the awakening towards better direction.

The relief still leaves a question of whether it is a fable (the animal story told to children) like the one in Mendut temple or a description of animals that was intentionally made to denote certain meaning. Such question rises because the description of the animals in the temple was not found in any books containing fables such as Jataka, Sukasaptati, Pancatantra and its hereditary versions.

Gampingan temple that is predicted to be built between 730 - 850 AC is believed to be the place for adoring Jambhala (god of prosperity, the child of Siva). The idea is based on the finding of Jambhala statue in the digging process. Jambhala is described to have been meditating; sitting crossed-legged while closing the eyes. The body was decorated by iconographical element (asana) in the form of a lotus with 8 pieces of leaves as the symbol of Vishnu mystical weapon (cakra) in the human body.

The figure of Jambhala in this temple is different from those in other temples. Generally, Jambhalas in other temples are described with wide eyes looking at the worshippers with various accessories symbolizing prosperity and luxury. This different description is believed to be based on the worship motivation, not to invoke prosperity but guidance in order to achieve the real happiness.

Visiting Gampingan temple will lead us to remembering the path we have taken to achieve happiness and prosperity. Relief that is dominated by animals that live in the surrounding environment could be the realization of local community's wisdom by that time in representing a message from nirvana: mankind must keep the harmony of nature in order to live in prosperity and to avoid disaster.

Ijo Temple

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• Going along the street leading to the southern part of Queen Boko Palace complex is such an exciting journey, especially for cultural tourism lovers. The reason is that there are so many temples mushrooming in that area. One of them that is rarely talked about is Candi Ijo or Ijo Temple; one temple of which location is the highest compared to other temples in Yogyakarta.
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• Ijo Temple was built in around the ninth century on a hill named the Green Hill of which height is 410 meters above the sea level. Because of this height, we can enjoy not only the temple but also natural view below such as terraces of agriculture land with its steep slope. Even though this is not a fertile area, natural view around the temple is so beautiful to enjoy.
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• The complex of the temple consists of 17 building structures that are divided into 11 terraces. The first terrace functioning as the yard leading to the entrance is a terrace with staircase stretching from west to east. The building on the eleventh terrace is in the form of encircling wall, eight pole phallus, four buildings namely the main temple, and three ancillary temples. The placement of the building on each terrace is based on the level of its being sacral. The building on the highest terrace is the most sacral.
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• Variants of painting are found since the entrance of this Hindu temple. Right on the entrance gate, there is a motif of double head giant and some of its attributes. Such motif and attributes found in Buddhist temples show that such temples are acculturation forms of Hindu and Buddha cultures. Some temples having such giant motif are Ngawen, Plaosan and Sari.

There is also a statue describing flying woman and man directing to certain side. Such description can have some meanings; first, as spells to expel evil spirit and second as symbol of unity between god Siva and goddess Umi. The unity is meant as the onset of universe creation. Different from the statues in Prambanan Temple, natural style of the statues in Ijo Temple do not lead to eroticism.

Approaching the ancillary temples on the eleventh terrace, there is a pit possible used to burn sacrifice. Right on the upper part of the pit back wall there are ventilations in the forms of trapezium and triangle. The pit reflects the Hindu community that adores Brahma, the god of fire. The three ancillary temples show community adoration to the three Hindu gods, namely Brahma, Siva, and Vishnu.

Some of the works that keep mystery are two inscriptions located in the temple building on the ninth terrace. One of the inscriptions is coded by letter F with the writing Guywan or Bluyutan meaning place for meditation. Another inscription is made of stone as high as 14 cm and as thick as 9 cm containing magic spells that are predicted to be curses. The magic spells were written 16 times and parts of them read "Om Sarwwawinasa, Sarwwawinasa." The two inscriptions may relate closely to certain occurrences in Java by that time. What were the occurrences? They are not revealed yet up to now.

Visiting this temple, you will find beautiful scenery that other temples do not have. Looking down westwards, you will see airplane taking off and landing at Adisutjipto International Airport. You see this scenery because the Seribu Mountains where Ijo Temple is located is the border of the east part of the airport. It is because of the presence of this temple that Adisutjipto Airport cannot be lengthened eastwards.

Each detail of the temple presents meaningful thing and invites the visitors to make a reflection so that the journey will not just be fun time. Great paintings without the name of the creators show life philosophy of the past Javanese community that emphasized more on moral message presented by the works rather than the creators or the greatness of their works.

Javanese City

Semarang

Semarang city, the capital of Central Java province is located on the north Coast of Java Sea. Semarang is situated on Java's northern coast and is called the capital of Central Java, as it lies just about halfway between the extreme east and west coasts of the island. From Candi Hill we get amazing scenery of the port, the lowlands and green paddy fields, the city itself and the surrounding mountains. The environs around Semarang are perfect for clay trips side-excursions. Semarang is the five major cities in the nation. It is situated on Java's normally flat northern coast and appropriately called the capital of Central Java.

Semarang is a busy administrative and trading city, most of the offices, business centers, industrial estates are concentrated in the low land, where as in the hilly side, there are many houses with the beautiful gardens with a superb view to the town and the sea. The old records of this city date back to the 15th to the 18th century AD in where captivating ancient and colonial monuments still standing to present date.

There is an older part of the city, close to its ocean harbor, where we can still find an interesting collection of odd-looking buildings dating back to the Dutch colonial era and further back still, to the time of the Dutch East Indies Company. The old city has colonial era buildings (Dutch) and is well worth a stroll. If have time we can try and catch a traditional Wajang puppet performance.

The population of Semarang is predominantly Javanese, though with smaller numbers of people from many regions in Indonesia. The city is known for its large ethnically Chinese population. The main languages spoken are Indonesian and Javanese. As a result of its large ethnically Chinese population, the city boasts several Chinese temples. These include Sam Po Kong (Kedung Batu), built in honor of the Chinese Great Admiral Zheng He who visited the area in 1405, and Tay Kak Sie Temple. Blenduk Church, a 1753 Protestant church built by Dutch, is located in the old town (called "Oudstad"). Tugu Muda (Youth Monument), a monument to heroes of Indonesia's independence struggle, is located in front of Lawang Sewu Building, at the end of Pemuda Street, one of the city's major shopping streets.

Simpang Lima

Simpang Lima (means "five intersection") is a vast field at the heart of Semarang. At night, we can eat, drink or just bring our self-wandering around Simpang Lima. There are plenty of food stalls offering variety of Indonesian and Javanese food. The price is cheap, sometimes very cheap. It is a square with many shops and cinemas around. In the evening a lot of people are here taking a walk or window-shopping. Early in the morning, people are jogging along the street.

Simpang Lima, the downtown of Semarang area, is probably the best place to stay if we want to enjoy the hustle bustle of the town life. However, if we are looking for tranquility, the hotels around Sisingamangaraja Street, the upscale neighborhood in the hills of Semarang is probably better.

Magelang

Magelang Regency as a regency in Central Java is located between other regencies and municipalities such as Temanggung Regency, Semarang Regency, Boyolali Regency, Purworejo Regency, Wonosobo Regency, Magelang Municipality and DIY, stretches along the equator between 110001'51” and 110026'58” East Longitude and between 7019'13” and 7042'16” South Latitude. Magelang is a cool pleasant medium sized city about 40 Km north of Yogya, surrounded by several mountains; Merapi and Merbabu in the east, Sumbing and Sindoro in the west. It is located on the road connecting Yogya and Semarang on the west site, whereas the other east site is Yogya - Solo - Semarang. Magelang is a pleasant major Central Java town of medium size, about sixty-four kilometers from Wonosobo. Magelang town is also the capital of Magelang municipality, which covers an area of 18,12 square kilometers. It consists of two districts and fourteen villages. It is known, besides for its pleasant climate and beautiful surroundings, for the facts that the Indonesia National Military Academy is located here.

The city has historically been a military post, dating back to the Dutch East Indies colonial era. It subsequently acted as an army stronghold for Indonesia pro-independence movement against the Dutch government during the resistance period. Currently, it is host to two military landmarks: The National Military Academy, and the only military-associated school, Taruna Nusantara.

Solo

Surakarta or more famous as Solo is lying across in fertile plain terrain along the longest river in Java, Bengawan or River Solo. Flanked by mountain volcanoes Merapi and Merbabu in the north, and mount Lawu in the southeast border, is famous as a stronghold and center of Javanese culture and tradition. Surakarta, is the cradle of Javanese culture, with two royal houses in one single city: the Kraton of Solo and the Mangkunegaran, a principality. Descendants of these two royal houses are still considered leaders of Javanese culture and traditions. Majestic ceremonies and royal festivals are still held with great affectation nowadays. Surakarta or Solo (550000 inhabitants) draws its name from the longest river of Java, which passes in this city. It was the capital of the kingdom of Mataram from 1745 to 1755. There are many Becak (rickshaws decorated with naive scenes) croos the city.

Solo offers an incredible list of eateries also popular far beyond the city. Solo today remains a distinctly Central Javanese with an elegance all its own. It is one of the centers of batik and other Javanese fabrics, and souvenir hunters may find exquisite 'objects d'art" and ornate trinkets in the local markets. Those interested in old, Javanese culture and art should not miss Solo. Solo is called the city that never sleeps. From the evening throughout the whole night one can always find something to eat or buy, as vendors of all kinds as well as small food-stalls remain active and open 24 hours. Home of two royal houses with centuries of power and influence over the city. There are nice inns and hotels in Selo for accommodation. This place was a famous holiday resort of Surakarta Royal Families.

Solo is Surakarta's commercial as well as its administrative center, and produce from the surrounding desa fills the markets every day. Solo produces cigarettes, herbal medicines and various other light industry products, but batik is far and away the most important manufacturing activity in the city. Batik is a traditional textile working process involving the use of wax to cover the cloth in patterns and thus control the areas affected by dying. In the traditional process, batik tulis ("written batik") hot wax is applied with incredible patience and skill with an instrument that looks like a pipe but is used like a pen. The women and girls sit circled around an often-smoky little burner that heats the wax.

Many of the larger houses participate in the batik industry, with an area set aside for a covey of from 10 to 30 women and girls, who usually come from the village (desa). Really skilled workers are generally old, and the present level of batik production is not likely to continue in economically developing Java as alternative, less demanding activities absorb more of this cheap labor.

Pasar Klewer (Klewer Market)

Off the west gate of Karaton's North Square, this old market selling all kinds of fabrics, predominantly batik. Other traditional fabrics are lurik (hand-woven striped cotton cloth) and tenun ikat. There are hundreds of shops jammed along narrow passageways. The visitors must be prepared to bargain. Batik cloths and garments, hand-woven fabrics, traditional and local jewelry, leather puppets, basketry, tortoise-shell accessories, trinkets, brassware and other decorative items, and all kinds of antiques are local specialties. Souvenir and art objects are available in all major towns of Central Java, mostly in the downtown areas and popular market places or shopping centers.

Pasar Klewer in Solo is the busiest textile market in Java, a great place to buy not only the less expensive “stamped” (batik cap) cloths, but also some of the best hand-drawn batik tulis on the island. There are plenty of tailors in the market who can make shirts and skirts in a day. Also not to be missed while visiting Solo is the flea Market at Pasar Triwindu, where everything and anything is for sale to those willing to have a bit of fun bargaining.

Klaten

Klaten is the capital of regency, which thrives on the sugar industry. Klaten Regency occupies an area of 655,56 square kilometers and consists of 26 districts and more than 401 villages. Many pilgrims visit the grave of Sunan Bayat (one of the nine early Islamic preachers). In Klaten there is also the Sugar Museum, which is much visited by the people of Klaten Regency and its surroundings. Klaten was chosen as a manufacturing site because it is a traditional center for woodcarving and craftsmanship. The royal courts of Solo and Jogjakarta employed the forebears of some of the skilled workers at Alis Jaya in Dutch colonial times when artistic patronage by rulers was a vital part of local culture.

In Jatinom, the traditional ceremony of Sebaran Apem Yaqowiyu(Yaqowiyu Ceremony) is held each year. Rice-flour cakes are given out to the people. There is the grave of a poet of the Solo royal palace, Ronggo Warsito, and a resort called Rowo Jombar, about twenty-three kilometers from Solo toward the northwest.

Salatiga

Salatiga is located about 40 km south of Semarang to Solo under Merbabu Mountain. Salatiga is a small city in Central Java. A city of students and retirement, it has been known since the Dutch occupation era to be a city of relaxation because of its cool relaxing temperature. About 40% of its 150,000 residences are students of three private universities in the city. This 600 m medium sized provincial town, lying on the slope of Merbabu has a hill station feel. The Satyawacana University is in the City. Near by the city, Rawapening tranquil lake with beautiful scenery is a popular picnic spot. Salatiga is a hidden town. It must have been desperation for its citizens: always shadowed by the immensity of its surroundings, but never had the chance to be alike. Yet in hiding, away from the ignorant eyes of the world, beauty blooms here. It blooms in silence, and never asks for attention.

Surabaya

Night View in Surabaya

Most people go to Surabaya to take the boat to Bali or Sulawesi but there is a lot more to do and see than just the harbor, the docks and the piers. Surabaya has an interseting old city, great shopping in the modern center and the bustling kind of city life you can find only in Asian megacities.

Jembatan Merah is the place to start exploring the city. Around it you find many old houses built by the Dutch. Chinatown is just around the corner, with famous boulevard named Jalan Kembang Jepun.

The Pasar Pabean is a big market that is worth a visit. In the heart of the Arab quarter you find the Masjid Ampel Mosque. You can reach the mosque through the covered bazar in Jalan Ampel Suci.

Surabaya has good nighlife. Tunjungan Plaza is the place to head for, there are a few disco's around. There are many restaurants are nearby as well. And now added with pedestrian food stalls within a complex named Kya Kya.

A booming city of over 3 million, Surabaya offers many good hotels, shopping centers and entertainment. Its well stocked zoological garden include several species of Indonesian fauna like "orang utan", komodo dragon and a collection of nocturnal animals.

Kalimas is an old traditional harbor for the world famous Bugis schooner "phinisi" which sailed the Indonesian seas for hundreds of years. At present those praus can still be seen in their former glory with big colorful sails.

Interesting Places

Tawangmangu

Tawangmangu is located 40 km east of Solo, this recreational resort offers fresh weather; scenic views, swimming pools, bungalow style hotels and restaurants. Tawangmangu, a mountain resorts at an elevation of almost 1 km above sea level, which promises a cool escape from the city's heat. It lies on the slopes of Mt. Lawu, at an elevation of 1300 m above sea level. A cool splendid hill resort also on the slope of mount Lawu, at about 1400 M height above sea level. The road from Solo via Karangpandan is a fine trip thru magnificent green terraced hills. Tawangmangu has all kind of facilities, hotel, camping ground, forest tourism, etc. The climate is fresh and one can enjoy the beautiful scenery. Other features include nearby temples, a national park and 40m in high waterfall of Grojogan Sewu.

It is a 100 M high waterfall; the pool at the bottom has very chilly water. In front of the gate to Grojogan Sewu, horses for rent are available to ride around Tawangmangu.

Jatijajar Cave

Jatijajar cave is located about 49 km west of Kebumen, or 20 km from Gombong. It is the most interesting cave in Central Java with its stalactite and stalagmite. Inside the cave, there is Kamandaka statue, which has its own legend. The legend inside the cave describing about the legend of Raden Kamandaka or lutung kasarung legend, which this story is represented by statues inside of cave. It is believe that water from water source inside cave can make some one well preserved. The length of this cave is about 250 meters. To reach the location there is available transportation such as angkot (a small bus), and also some representative hotels and restaurants. The name of Jatijajar is come when there were two of twin jati trees growths in mouth of cave in the first time founded. The cave complex is equipped by Dinosaurs statue discharges water from his mouth, whereas water comes from sources inside cave every day. There are also another beautiful cave in the area of Jatijajar cave, such as, Intan Cave and Dempok cave completed by a pleasure park Also there is park available, with the name Taman Kera as many of monkey statues in there. Inside mouth of cave there are many stalactites and stalagmites, a natural process since thousands years ago.

Dieng Plateau

Dieng Volcanic Complex (also called the Dieng Plateau) is a complex volcano. A complex volcano is an extensive assemblage of spatially, temporally, and genetically related major and minor volcanic centers with the associated lava flows and pyroclastic rocks. This is another place worth visiting in Central Java, situated around 2000 m above sea level and 100 km from Borobudur. This area northwest of Yogyakarta is in the volcanic mountains and over 2,000 meters elevation. The name "Dieng" means "abode of the gods." There the visitor can find restarted temples build around year 800, colorful lakes and steaming ones. On the road we will see how the farmer use all the land available by using terraces. It's also fresher up here and we are almost above the clouds. The plateau, located 2,093 meters above sea level, offers two sunrises, the golden sunrise and the silver sunrise. Both are equally amazing natural phenomena. The golden sunrise refers to the first sunrise between 5:30 and 6 a.m. It is said to be golden because of its sparkling golden red color. We can enjoy this sunrise from a viewing post at a height of 1,700 meters above sea level in Wonosobo. The place, located in a mountainous area, is easily accessible because the roads leading to this area are all paved.

After savoring the beauty of the double sunrise, a natural phenomenon perhaps found only on Dieng Plateau, we could still enjoy the beauty of the surrounding nature. Walk about 10 minutes over a distance of some two kilometers to the southeast of the temple where there is a colorful lake. From the top of a hill the lake reflects a greenish yellow color, the reflection of the sulfate acid that the lake water contains. Beside this colorful lake there is another lake with pristine water. Locals call it the mirror lake because the water is very clear. The surface of the lake water also reflects sunlight. Unfortunately, this beautiful morning panorama is slightly impaired by the rampant felling of trees around the lakes. Unless the tree feeling is checked, this beautiful panorama will soon vanish for good.

Beside the beautiful panorama above, there is also small monuments, which are not more than 50 feet high stand on a crater floor amidst sulfurous fumes and underlined by the presence of a few of the starkest Shivaite temples at an elevation of more than 6.000 feet, are impressive. The site is located four hours from Semarang. In this site, the visitor will see some of the oldest Hindu temples of Java. On the way to the Dieng Plateau, visitors will pass through tobacco plantations and beautiful mountain scenery. This area can reach about four hours from Semarang, the site of some of the oldest Hindu temples on Java. These 50m-foot high monuments stand on a crater floor amidst sulfur fumes. The road to the Dieng Plateau passes through tobacco plantations and beautiful mountain scenery.

Baturaden

The interesting place to see is Baturaden, located 15 km north of Purwokerto. Baturaden is a classical highland country in the foot of Gunung Slamet volcano. Central Java's outstanding resort is approximately 14 km north of Purwokerto. It occupies a fine site on the slope of Mount Slamet, at an elevation of 650 m above sea level. It has remarkable weather with a cool mountain breeze. The temperature ranges from 18 degree C to 25 degree C. The resort area is surrounded by nice gardens, hot springs, ponds and bungalow-style hotels. Other features include 200 ha of pine forest, a nearby market and marvelous views. Some European groups are known to spend a day trekking through its Splendid Natural Forest and Villages. Always green, the area is blessed with an abundance of natural water resources spouting out in numerous waterfalls and rivers, which flow between the huge boulders of hardened lava. The huge boulders also points out to Ravines and river bank and form some kind of path, apparently having rolled down from Mount Slamet during a eruption many centuries ago.

Baturaden is renowned for local tourism; with attraction of hot spring, trekking and camping. The main attraction for tourist is the Loka Wisata Baturaden, a recreational Park with a swimming pool, water slide, lake; children's play ground with an Old Dutch Merry-go-round, Hot water mineral spring and Botanical Gardens. We can come to spend the whole day, picnicking on the grassy lawn or along the river or bathing in the mineral waters, which contain sulfur. There are two natural hot spring in Baturaden, namely Pancuran Telu and Pancuran Pitu. The park connects with "Pancuran Tujuh" (Seven Fountains) of warm sulfuric spring water about 2,5 Km's away. The camping ground is called Wana Wisata. There are 76 hotels ranging from the star grade to the modest one for overnight stay. We can go perum berkoh there are one elite house in this city.

Bledug Kuwu

Bledug Kuwu is one of tourist attractions in Wirosari area in Grobogan Region, Purwodadi, Central Java. Bledug Kuwu is a local name for something that burst in pool. This is rather strange pool that far from volcano. The vapor burst came from carbon dioxide release. The temperature is mild. Visitors might experience a stunning natural occurrence of small, frequent bursts from mud crate with a sound resembling a mount eruption. This natural phenomenon is resulted from geothermal motion inside the earth bed. Witness said that a big burst could even create small quakes that quiver the area.

Bledug Kuwu looks like just another muddy pond. But every one or two minutes, the placid water erupts in an explosion of mud, followed by a plume of white steam. The pond is located just off the alternative road connecting Purwodadi and Cepu in Central Java, on a site measuring some 4.5 hectares. Bledug Kuwu has become a tourist attraction in the area. The visitors can watch the geyser from a distance of between 10 meters and 20 meters. The eruptions of water and mud shift positions from time to time. But there are two spots where the geyser regularly erupts. The locals call the one in the east Mbah (Grandpa) Jokotua and the one in the west Mbah (Grandma) Rodenok. They have given the spots where the geyser erupts names, as they believe that the place is sacred.

Gajah Mungkur Dam

This Gigantic picturesque dam is located about 3 km from the town of Wonogiri. The water supply of the dam is from Bengawan Solo River, the longest river in Java. Its construction was in 1975 until 1981. The lake of the dam covers an area of 8.800 ha and has capacity to irrigate 23.600 ha of rice fields in the regencies of Klaten, Sukoharjo, Karanganyar and Sragen. It supplies the drinking water for Wonogiri and electrical turbine with capacity of 12,4 M.W. This is also a beautiful place for water recreation. There is a pier for boots to take people around the lake and also available facilities for water skiing, fishing and floating restaurant. The hand-gliding sport can be enjoyed here.

There, we can find Sendang recreation park that located at the bank of Gajah Mungkur dam, about 6 km from the town center of Wonogiri town to the South. The visitor can enjoy boating, fishing, water skiing, swimming or engage in hang gliding sport which starts from a hill near the dam.

Cipendok Waterfall

Cipendok waterfall is located at a plateau in Banyumas region and officially made open for public in February 27, 1986 by the Banyumas Regent, R.G Roydjito. Go north of Cipendok, lies the largest mountain forest in Java. To be able to reach the bottom of Cipendok Waterfall we must walk some steps down. In the stream at the feet of the waterfall, there is a group of black, monstrous stones soaked by the heavy water. Cipendok Waterfall is a perfect site for those who seek solace or quiet surrounding for meditation.

Curug Semawur Waterfall

Curug Semawur, located at Blumah Village in Plantungan district, Kendal, Central Java is about 33km from Semarang. The journey to the waterfall can be a memorable experience as visitors would witness lines of wooden-house of the villagers, in addition to encounters a bunch monkeys along the way. Endless streams of waterfall heavily even in the driest season of the year, not to mention its unusual height, which could reach up to tens of meters. It has legend that the waterfall actually consists of seven levels and very few people have been able to climb up its peak.

Karimunjawa

Karimunjawa is and island chain stretching in a northwesterly direction 83 km from Jepara. Central Java. This archipelago is a cluster of 27 islands in the java sea. Only seven of the islands are inhabited. The reefs are a mixture of fringing, barrier, and patch with bottom depths ranging from 15 to 40 meters. The name of Karimunjawa is taken from Javanese language 'Kremun kremun saking tanah Jawi' addressed by one of Wali Songo (the Nine Saints who had introduced Islam in Java) to describe how far this mini archipelago from Java, to be exact from Semarang and Jepara. Stands from 27 islands, this mini archipelago became marine national park and it's like a treasure for those who love marine life. Here can be found protected coral reefs (very colorful plateaus and plains in deep and shallow waters), secluded and tranquil white beaches, pelican and hornbill, sea grass and kinds of sea creatures, from crabs, anchovy, starfish, sharks, stingray, jellyfish, red snappers, etc.

Kyai Langgeng Park

Kyai Langgeng Park located at the western part of Magelang, and occupying land of about 19 hectares, with the tranquility of a rural atmosphere, is easily accessible as it lies only about 1 km from the center of the town. Convenient public transport brings the tourist there, leaving town life behind to go back to nature.

Sangiran

Sangiran is located 15 km from Surakarta. It is a village located 17 Km north of Solo, on the road to Purwodadi. It is an important place for Pithecanthropus Erectus, the pre-historic Java man. It is fossilized land of prehistoric living things. The Pleistocene Museum keeps some skills of the erectus, fossils of plants and animals. Sangiran and other places such as Wajak (near Tulungangung) and Trinil (near Ngawi) are significant places for human evolution/theory. It is interesting place for scientific tourism in the field of geology, anthropology and archeology. Many experts came to this site to do some research and study among other; Van Es (1939), Duyfyes (1936), Van Bemmelen (1937), Van Koeningswald (1938), Sartono (1960), Suradi (1962) and Otto Sudarmaji (1976). Van Koeningswald said that more than five different types of hominoid fossils have been found in Sangiran, it was incredible. There is no other place in the world like Sangiran. The Sangiran fossils are very various, they were earth as well as sea fossils. There was a possibility that island of Java was erected from the bottom of sea million years ago.

Ambarawa Railway Museum

Ambarawa is famous nationwide by the credo Palagan Ambarawa. Small city that forgotten nowadays but became one of the important base camp of National heroes during Dutch occupancy in World War II. A small city in the junction of national road between Yogyakarta to Semarang and accessible to several small cities nearby like Salatiga, Magelang and Bandungan. Fifty km south of Semarang, Ambarawa has locomotives of various types and ages, and it is still possible to ride on a cog railway between Ambarawa and Bedono, a village nearby. Ambarawa Railway Museum 50 km south of Semarang, Ambarawa is the home of Java's antique locomotives, housed in a museum. Prior arrangements should be made for groups. Also of interest are a collection of antique telephones and other instrument used for railway communication.

The museum was established in the 1970s primarily to preserve a wide selection of the steam locomotives, which were then coming to the end of their useful lives on the 3ft 6in (1067mm) gauge railways of the Indonesian State Railway (the Perusahaan Negara Kereta Api, PNKA). These are parked in the open air next to the original station, originally a transhipment point between the 4ft 8 in gauge branch from Kedungjati to the northeast and the 3ft 6in gauge line onward towards Yogyakarta via Magelang to the south. It is still possible to see that the two sides of the station were built to accommodate different size trains. Ambarawa lays some way above sea level and was an administrative centre for the Dutch colonialists. Now the provincial Government of Central Java is increasingly taking an interest from the point of view of its heritage significance and its potential as a tourist attraction. Non-Governmental bodies like the Semarang Heritage Society are also acting to assist and there is also an unofficial overseas group 'The Friends of Ambarawa Railway Museum'.

Pengging Palace

Pengging Palace, in Boyolali city 1.5km from Solo-Semarang highway, three has bathing pools whose water remains fresh and so clear despite having been visited many times. Located 10 km west of Solo Airport in Banyudono district. Moreover, the spring water never runs dry even at the driest season of the year. It is believed that the bathing pools were specially designed for kings of Pengging Kingdom. At the back of the compound lies a fishing pond where visitors can fish and grill their catch right away. There are several springs here; the one called Umbul Pengging has been built as a recreational park. The graveyard of Yosodipuro, one of the famous poets of Kraton Surakarta, which attracts some pilgrims, is also in this village. The spring nearby the mosque of the graveyard is considered of having holy water. Pengging is also a place with magical value. Some believe it was the site of Ki Ageng Pengging or Adipati/Viceroy Handayaningrat at the end period of Majapahit Kingdom. He was the grand father of Sultan Hadiwijoyo of Pajang Kingdom. Thus all the kings / rulers of Mataram, Yogya and Solo palaces are direct descendants of Pengging.

Bengawan Solo River

This longest river in Java flows along the eastern edge of the town from its source in the lime stones hill of the south, near East Java border to its mouth nearby Surabaya, on the Java sea. Regretfully, the river is now shallow it is not navigable anymore. But in the past it was an important link between Solo and the north cost of East Java. It length is 600 km flowing in 2 provinces which are Central Java Province and East Java Province with the irrigation width 16.000 km2, was the biggest and the main river basin area. It rises on the slope of Mount Lawu volcano (10,712 feet [3,265 m]) and the southern limestone range (Sewu Mountains) and flows north, then east to discharge into the Java Sea at a point opposite Madura Island, northwest of Surabaya. In recent 30 years development of irrigation facility at the Bengawan Solo river area have reach a significant level of development. This was mark by the completed of irrigation building, which still in progress or even have been built such as reservoir, dam, dike, irrigation net, and others. Investment have been spent to reach this development level is very big. Those buildings have functions as a flood controller, Hydraulic Power Generator, water supply for farming, industry, drink water, fishery, and others.

There is a well-known song 'Bengawan Solo' composed by Mr. Gesang. In the central Javanese city of Solo, a statue of Gesang Martohartono looks over the gently flowing Bengawan Solo, or Solo River. It was the famous Indonesian singer-songwriter Gesang, who composed the celebrated Indonesian melody "Bengawan Solo" during World War II -- when the country was under Japanese occupation. The song describes the legendary river in a poetic and nostalgic way, that it is surrounded by mountains, its sources are near the city of Surakarta, that it ends in the sea, and that the merchant class always makes use of it. It is in the local Keroncong style, a popular folk style with influences from Portuguese. The Japanese, who occupied the country during World War II, brought the song with them to Japan after returning from the war. There, and also in the rest of Asia and later worldwide, the song became very famous.

Javanese Architecture 3

K A M P U N G/Neighborhood

A sec of not-so-architectural info: That's my kitten Yoshi staring at the neighborhood dogs -- there are only 3 households here that keep dogs, and all of them are Chinese-Indonesians(Tionghoans), since basically the place is a Muslim compound. The guitar case belongs to mobile musicians which are ubiquitous in Indonesia, especially in Java, which in Indonesian is called 'pengamen' and in Javanese 'wong mbarang'. They make their rounds everyday from morning until sunset, door-to-door, peddling listenable songs or exactly the opposite, for a few coins each time. That's why in many Javanese and Indonesian restaurants, shopping malls and such, you's see this sign: "Pengamen Dilarang Masuk". The last two words mean 'no entrance'. At some neighborhoods there are the same signs, which usually have these words added right behind the word 'pengamen': "...dan Pemulung". 'Pemulung' is Indonesian for people whose job is to rummage through garbage bins and collect whatever is salable from there. The picture above is of downtown Yogya from a bird's view (or actually from the eye of an Indonesian Air Force captain) in early 21st century. The active volcano Mt. Merapi at the background is to us like Mt. Fuji has been to the Japanese. This volcano erupts from time to time, or sends some pyroclastic objects downhill, but we're used to that. Small-scaled earthquakes or tremors are nearly parts of our lives. It takes a whole lot more than that for us to start considering to get panic. A Javanese and Indonesian neighborhood is usually called 'kampung' (some hybrid English term for it is written the Malaysian way: 'kampong'). It is the basis (i.e. lowest in the hierarchy) of the sociopolitical management of the country. Its official name for the bureaucracy to mind as a territorial unit is 'Rukun Tetangga', usually abbreviated into 'RT', and literally means 'gemeinschaft'. Oh, well. There is no English word for it so far. A neighborhood is led by an unpaid and overworked headman (Ketua RT). He (sometimes she) is directly elected by the families in the area, which usually comprise of 10 to 30 houses in all. Since no money is to be gotten in this supposedly voluntary job (some headmen are actually forced to be by their neighbors), the compensation is social luxury -- at least you'd know whose wife runs with whom last Thursday, whose husband got locked up in a German mental hospital, whose goats trampled whose crops, which kid is it that broke whose windows in a football play, and so forth. So it is a great job. If, of course, you are such a critter to bask in such knowledge. A Javanese and Indonesian neighborhood looks like this: At the center of the picture above is......the flag of the most famous Japanese Christian warlord, Takayama Ukon. But no Indonesian cares to know about him (but me), so in the 60th Independence Day this Javanese district flutters such banners all along its small roads, alternating them with the national flags. It's August 17th when this snapshot was taken. It has been a string of no-fuss Independence Days since 1998. Before that and since 1971, the New Order, the regime of General Suharto that ruled this tsunami-wrecked country until ousted in 1998 (oh, I have mentioned the year before), every Independence Day used to be a great national.....chaos. People were ordered to re-paint their houses in certain colors, public spaces were re-do (or got undone) in some more certain colors (the regime's political party's flag was yellow). See History of Indonesia. All other Independence Day stuff stays the same: neighborhood like this alley's inhabitants are all to enter silly competitions such as catching eels and ducks, climbing oiled poles to reach some presents hung on top of it, and so forth. And then, after August 17th, there is always a 'cultural event held at the neighborhood center (a rather huge building, an ambitious and rather out-of proportion project financed by inhabitants of this sphere, so it took 7 years to finish building it). At the neighborhood center, on the Independence Day Celebration Night, we are supposed to contemplate upon the heroism of 1945 and so on while the neighborhood band, whose singer and lead guitarists live just next door to my house, respectfully saturates the evening air with..... Pearl Jam, Linkin Park, Coldplay and Staind. Another alley in the district that I put the pic of here to show the concrete alleyway it has. The alleyway in the previous pic is made of stone slabs. All Javanese and Indonesian neighborhood always finance their own projects concerning infrastructures like that; the less-than-unfortunate members of the neighborhood substitute the money contribution with sweat. They're the ones working on such alleyways. Every Javanese neighborhood, and Indonesians in general though not so closely situated outside Java and Bali, there is a grocery shop. The grocer is always one of the people living there, so the place often becomes an informal meeting-space. Neighborhood grocers don't sell veggies and fruits and such, because there are other people from outside the neighborhood who make daily rounds peddling that sort of merchandise (see the veggies and fruits sections at other pages). Sometimes a grocery shop in the neighborhood has a name put on a small billboard. But 90% of them don't even feel the necessity of having a name; it is enough that to their regular customers they are 'Mr Danto's shop' or 'Mrs Diah's deli', if there are more than one grocer in the neighborhood. If there is only one, it will get referred to as simply 'the shop'. Anyway, the 10% of grocery shops that put on some billboards only did so because major advertisers urged them to -- big cigarette factories, for instance, usually pay a handsome amount of cash to grocers who agree to put on a huge billboard bearing a factory's logo or brand name, on the lower part of which the name of the shop is emblazoned in small letters, for free. Five or six grocers nearest to my house actually made their names up just for this in 1990's, while they had been open for 15 or 20 years namelessly. What they sell is only what their neighbors need. So, while most are the same merchandise, actually every grocery customized their stuff. And unless you are a regular customer, you can't expect the nearest grocery to provide for your specific needs. You can get washing soap, bathing soap, cigarettes, candies, cooking oil, kerosene, factory-produced snacks, instant noodles (click here for why you might need such a thing), soft drinks (not always, and not the brands that the neighbors dislike), mineral water, rice, eggs (to go with the noodles), salt, sugar, coffee, tea, sachets of traditional beverages such as ginger tea, pencils, ballpoint pens, notebooks, gift wrappers, plastic bags, rubber sandals, and so on. Some of them also has a payphone. A lot of grocery shops are just private garages. But 'serious' grocers like Mr. Kardjo of my neighborhood painstakingly built a separate building for his grocery, right at the edge of his front yard. The all-too-real poverty of a good many Javanese and Indonesian suburban neighborhoods is impossible to overlook (actually this is what we mean when saying the word 'kampung', and not just any neighborhood). Especially since they exist side by side with obvious and architectural affluence. But the roofs in such neighborhood are made of the basically artistic burnt red clay. In 'real estate' compounds, the roofs are often made of 'asbes' (asbetos), some chemical dumpling mixed with unspeakable materials (as far as we're concerned, that is the definition of 'asbes'), which generously gives you the taste of the outdoors even while you are staying in bed: it fries your head in dry season and forward the water it downloads from the sky in monsoon right to your bed. This is how an ordinary Javanese house looks like when getting constructed. Real Javanese houses are built with red bricks. The Javanese name for it is 'boto', and in Indonesian 'bata merah'. It is made of durable clay, dried and put in the oven. Surreal 'real estate' houses are built with the thing we call 'batako'; some insensibly fragile and unreasonably non-artistic slabs made of dried concrete (a sprinkle of it) and sand (a dash of it) and dirt (nearly a whole lot of it). The neighborhood of a rural spot like this village on Mt. Lawu in Central Java seems infinite in geographical terms compared to urban and suburban clots. But when it comes to the number of people, the entire inhabitants of this village, which currently consists of 6 neighborhoods, can barely fill up ten houses in my district, i.e. not even enough to jam one single unit that the local government would dub 'neighborhood'. Rural areas in Java have been stagnant demographically because everybody there leaves the place after finishing some basic schooling since 1970. Houses in villages are not much different from the ones at lower-middle class suburban neighborhoods. But every house seems, in the eye of a passersby, something 'historical'. Until 21st century, villagers usually build their own houses, with the help of their neighbors, in turns. Some even still go so far as to produce their own clay bricks and basic carpentry jobs. This is the characteristic compound that you can find in almost every Javanese town: the 100% Muslim neighborhood, which we call 'Kauman' ('kaum' is a colloquial term in Javanese that means anyone 'deep into Islam'). They are usually found at the oldest parts of the towns, and that means the very center of the towns, since Islam came everywhere first before 'real estate' agencies.